Tailored Italian Suits
Symbol par excellence of elegance, the suit since its birth, is the protagonist of the outfit of the true gentleman. The term suit derives from the French “suivre”, or follow, as the jacket follows the pants, creating a harmonious and classy combination.
But first, let’s understand the Evolution of the Suit.
Historical Duel between England (left) and France (right) Suit.
Duel in Style:
The suit was born from a historical duel between England and France. In fact, it is said that the three-piece suit was born in the British court in 1666, wanted by King Charles II. Until that time, the male suit was composed only of a jacket and pants.
The introduction of the vest was wanted by the English court in order to increase the trade of English wool and to challenge the French style that prefers expensive fabrics to be worn under the coat. The vest was originally a tight fitting garment that was knee-length and followed the line of the coat.
The suit was born from a historical duel between England and France. In fact, it is said that the three-piece suit was born in the British court in 1666, wanted by King Charles II. Until that time, the male suit was composed only of a jacket and pants.
The introduction of the vest was wanted by the English court in order to increase the trade of English wool and to challenge the French style that prefers expensive fabrics to be worn under the coat. The vest was originally a tight fitting garment that was knee-length and followed the line of the coat.
The new stylistic choice adopted by the English rivals, was taken personally by the style icon of the period: Louis XIV, King of France. Annoyed and full of pride, in order to belittle the English fashion, the French king ordered all the valets to wear the English vest. Nevertheless, the French court bent to the English fashion, adding a French touch through elaborate decorations and precious and refined materials.
The Birth of the Gentleman:
The vest, with its increasingly elaborate facets, perfectly reflected the attitude of the Dandy. Revolutionizing the men’s suit was Beau Brummell, the muse of dandyism.
He repudiated the baroque style of knee-length breeches and socks in favor of tailored long tube pants. The look launched by Brummell was completed with a white vest and tailcoat jackets, strictly black. By the end of the 19th century, the three-piece men’s suit became increasingly sober, a symbol of the emerging middle class.
Neapolitan Tailor at Work
Neapolitan Tailoring:
After talking about France and England, another big name in tailoring is certainly Made in Italy. In particular, the city of Naples, has been the master of the most skilled tailors since 1400. The capital of Campania is still the place of birth and training of the greatest Italian tailors.
Unlike foreign fashion, Italian style prefers elegance to French pomposity, and practicality to British rigor. Italian Tailoring conquered from nobles to sovereigns and made the name of Neapolitan tailoring grand and famous.
After talking about France and England, another big name in tailoring is certainly Made in Italy. In particular, the city of Naples, has been the master of the most skilled tailors since 1400. The capital of Campania is still the place of birth and training of the greatest Italian tailors.
Unlike foreign fashion, Italian style prefers elegance to French pomposity, and practicality to British rigor. For many lovers of tailoring, the suit made in Naples is distinguished by small details that make it unsurpassed.
Italian Tailoring conquered from nobles to sovereigns and made the name of Neapolitan tailoring grand and famous. The history of Neapolitan men’s tailoring is full of great names, which made possible the evolution of small tailor’s stores, born between the 30’s and 50’s, into international companies known all over the world, which are able to fascinate the most elegant men all over the world.
The Women's Suit:
Impossible to ignore the adoption of the men’s suit by women. The first to wear the men’s jacket were the suffragettes, who in order to have a role in society decided to wear men’s clothes. It was composed of a blouse, a jacket and an ankle-length skirt divided vertically, so as to look like pants.
Women’s fashion was able to evolve in the early years of the twentieth century thanks to the intervention of Coco Chanel. However, Yves Saint Laurent’s choice in 1966 to make women wear a three-piece suit was considered scandalous. YSL was the first to readjust the male suit to the female form. However, this revolutionary idea was not enough to democratize the suit among the women of the time, but from this moment on they felt free to wear men’s clothes as well.
A Suit is Forever
The suit over time has undergone several evolutions both in form and in the occasions in which to wear it. Although it has been cleared through customs for both informal occasions and in the female closet, it has never lost its elegant character. As the British saying from the 1400’s goes, “clothes make the man“, and in this case, “the suit makes the elegance“.
Le Smoking by Yves Saint Laurent, 1966
How to Produce your
Custom Suit?
When we talk about suits, we usually imagine a simple and clean garment, a symbol of rationalism and formality. In reality, tailors express creativity with different styles that have been developed over time, hand in hand with the evolution of the history of the suit.
Access the Technical Guide on Custom Suit
